Welcome to our guide on 3D printing with PLA. If you’re new to 3D printing, you’ll likely start with this material. It’s the friendly and reliable filament that makes learning 3D printing an enjoyable and smooth experience. Let’s see how you can get the best results from your PLA spools.
What is PLA & Why Should You Use It?
Polylactic Acid or PLA is a bioplastic made from renewable resources such as sugarcane or corn starch. Since it is plant-based, it’s more eco-friendly than petroleum-based filaments. Therefore, using PLA means you’re printing with a material that’s kinder to the environment and easy on your 3D printer.
You can print PLA at low temperatures, usually between 190°C and 210°C. You don’t need a special enclosure or a heated bed. That’s why it is perfect for desktop 3D printers. It sticks well to various surfaces such as PEI sheets, glass, or blue painter’s tape.
PLA also makes a sweet and mild smell during 3D printing. It produces fewer fumes than other plastics. So, it is safer for your office, home, and other areas.
Properties of PLA Filament
Before you start 3D printing, you should know PLA’s characteristics so you can understand its limits and strengths.
Mechanical Properties
PLA is stiff and strong, but it can be brittle. It has good tensile strength but low flexibility. It is great for rigid prototypes and display models. However, they are not good for parts that need to absorb impacts or bend.
Thermal Properties
PLA softens at a low temperature. It has a glass transition around 53°C. Its heat deflection temperature is about 80°C. This means you shouldn’t leave your finished prints in a hot car. They also can’t be used for mechanical parts that will get warm.
Storage
Keep your PLA spools in a sealed container with desiccant. Filament that absorbs moisture from the air can print poorly. They may have bubbles and stringing. So, you should store your filament for a longer life.
The Many Types of PLA Filament You Can Choose
Standard PLA
This is your go-to PLA. It is affordable and comes in many colors. It gives great results with very little fuss. You can use it for toys, prototypes, and decorative items.
Silk PLA
This PLA filament gives your prints a shiny and silky finish. It is perfect for figurines, decorative vases, and cosplay items where appearance is the most important.
PLA+ or Tough PLA
This is an upgraded PLA version. Manufacturers add modifiers to increase impact resistance and strength. If your standard PLA parts are snapping, PLA+ is a great upgrade. It prints almost as easily but gives you a more durable result.
Matte PLA
If you prefer a non-reflective and professional look, choose matte PLA. It hides layer lines well. It is also great for product mockups.
Metal-Filled PLA
This type is infused with metal powders such as bronze or copper. It gives your prints a metallic sheen and weight. Also, remember to use a hardened steel nozzle because the abrasive particles will wear down a standard brass one.
Wood-Filled PLA
This filament contains fine wood dust. You can print objects that resemble real wood. Also, you can even sand and stain them afterward. Use a larger 0.5mm or 0.6mm nozzle so you can prevent clogs.
Specialty PLAs
You can also find color-changing, glow-in-the-dark, and gradient PLA. These are fantastic for creative projects that need a unique touch.
Your Step-by-Step Guide to Printing with PLA
- Prepare Your Filament
First, check if your filament is dry. If it feels brittle or makes popping sounds when printing, it has absorbed moisture. So, dry it in a filament dryer or a food dehydrator at 60°C for a few hours.
- Level Your Print Bed
An unlevel bed is the most common cause of failed prints. Take your time to make sure that the nozzle is a consistent distance from the bed across the whole surface. At Deer Machine, we recommend using a piece of printer paper to gauge the gap, and you must feel a slight drag.
- Set Your Temperatures:
- Nozzle Temperature: Start at 200°C for standard PLA. You can adjust up or down by 5-10°C based on the filament manufacturer’s advice and your own results.
- Bed Temperature: A heated bed set to 50-60°C improves adhesion. If your printer doesn’t have a heated bed, apply a glue stick or blue painter’s tape on the print surface.
- Dial in Your Slicer Settings:
- Print Speed: 40-60 mm/s is a good starting range.
- Cooling Fan: Set your fan to the maximum after the first 2 or 3 layers. Good cooling is the secret to clean details and accurate overhangs.
- Retraction: To prevent thin strings of plastic between your parts, enable retraction. For a direct-drive extruder, start with 1-2 mm at 40 mm/s. For a Bowden setup, try 4-6 mm at 40 mm/s.
- Start Printing: When the first layer is going down smoothly, you are set. Avoid drafts from open windows or air conditioning since they might cause warping and cool the print unevenly.
Fixing Common PLA Printing Problems
Stringing
Those wispy threads are caused by oozing. Increase your retraction distance and speed. Lowering the nozzle temperature by 5-10°C can also help.
Poor Bed Adhesion
If your print doesn’t stick, your bed is likely not level, or it is dirty. You can clean it with isopropyl alcohol. Also, you can increase the bed temperature just a little or try using a brim for extra grip.
Clogged Nozzle
If the filament stops extruding, you may have a clog. Heat the nozzle. Then, use the fine needle that came with your printer to clear the tip. Sometimes, performing a “cold pull” can clean the inside completely.
Warping/Lifting Corners
This happens when the bottom layers cool and shrink too quickly. So, make sure your bed has reached the proper temperature and your printer is in a draft-free spot. Using an enclosure, even a simple cardboard box, may work.
Making Your PLA Prints Look Amazing
Post-processing transforms your good PLA prints into great ones.
Gluing
For multi-part projects, cyanoacrylate (super glue) creates strong and fast bonds. Smooth the surfaces lightly first for the best hold.
Sanding
Begin sanding with coarse grit sandpaper (around 200) to remove large layer lines. Then, you can switch to finer grits (400, 600, 800) if you need a smooth finish. Wet sanding keeps the PLA from getting too hot and softening.
Priming & Painting
A few light coats of filler-primer will hide layer lines. It will also make the surface uniform. Once primed, try adding acrylic model paints so you can bring color and more detail.
Smoothing
For advanced users, chemical smoothing with ethyl acetate vapor can make a seamless and glossy surface. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Follow safety precautions.
Comparing PLA With Other Filaments
How do you know when to use PLA versus another material, such as ABS or PETG?
vs. ABS
ABS is stronger and more heat-resistant. That is why it is used in LEGO bricks and car parts. However, it needs a heated bed, a high printing temperature, and an enclosure to manage fumes and warping. PLA is much safer and easier for everyday printing.
vs. PETG
PETG is more flexible. It is also more resistant to chemicals and heat. It’s better for tool handles, outdoor use, and other functional parts. However, it can be stringier and more temperamental to print than PLA.
Applications for Your PLA Filament
- Educational Models: Print historical artifacts, anatomical models, molecular structures, etc.
- Prototypes & Concept Models: Quickly check the shape and fit of a new design.
- Toys & Games: Make your own action figures, board game pieces, and puzzles.
- Home Decor & Art: Create custom sculptures, vases, and photo frames.
- Jigs & Fixtures: Produce custom tools to help with soldering, drilling, or assembling in your workshop.
Conclusion
PLA is the foundation of 3D printing for a good reason. It is accessible, reliable, and can create high-quality results. If you master your settings and know how to fix problems, you’ll discover many creative and practical possibilities.
We at Deer Machine are here to support your projects. Grab a spool of PLA, trust your 3D printer, and start making something creative today.
You can contact us for more material guides.
